Fireplace Bookshelves with Wood Storage

This is the same client (friends, actually) for whom we constructed an exterior door  (see oldest post here- ‘A Castle’s Exterior Door’… at the bottom of the page).
Anyway, this stone house was built over 75 years ago and we believed the old tongue and groove pine was original. Nice old wood but it made the living room a bit gloomy and she wanted to brighten and ‘clean up’ the look. They wanted to keep the stone fireplace and redo everything else.

We designed low shelving for that wall, the wall to it’s left and included a place for cord wood ‘waiting it’s turn’ to heat the house. It was a bit pricey so we eliminated the shelves returning on the left wall and… got to work.

The paneling was removed to expose the studs, the walls sheet-rocked, the stonework re-chinked, floors sanded / urethaned and the walls painted before installing the bookshelves.

We installed all the finish woodwork including some wider molding for the windows (more ‘old-world’ look to work with the stone). All painted white for a nice contrast. I fabricated some thick, oak, quarter round molding for the hearth’s edge as it sat 2″ above the floorRather than build the whole cabinet deeper, I elected to simply extend the floor of the cord wood opening. We protected it’s interior by lining it (floor, walls, ceiling and back) with sheet metal. I’m interested to see how this will stand the test of time.

I usually like the look of very old wood but it’s not quite so special when everywhere you look, you see nothing but walls of dark wood. I think this room is vastly improved… as our friends, all along, believed it would be.

Russell Hudson / Hudson Cabinetmaking, Inc.

 

 

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A Thoroughly Modern Kitchen

They were an older couple and made an apartment from the top floor of her daughter’s home. They took the largest room upstairs, turned half into a living room and the other half for the kitchen. This enabled me to stand in living room and capture a good shot of the whole kitchen. Few projects are like that and it’s one of the reasons I have this photo displayed on the gallery of our website.
They had thought long and hard about how they wanted it laid out and he, having been an engineer, drew the floor plan. They also said it was to be very modern and blond in color. I’d love to take sole credit for the design of this beauty but, I’m happy having gotten the job amongst three bids (and simply helping with it’s design).
Here is the room all prepped before installation…

before cabinetsAs all the cabs had toe-kicks, we built our bases (2X4′s), leveled them and began placing each cab in place.

first cabinets inMy son, Brian, working on the island (notice the quarter-round glass shelves on left)

modern kitchen island being installedNotice the roof pitch (ceiling slant) that required we make cabs with slanted tops to which the crown molding had to be wrapped at an angle. The ‘crown’ was simply ‘one by’ material so we increased the height of the piece on the face compared to the side runs. My elder son (Russell) is contemplating something in the background.

modern cabs with a slantHere is the first picture after completion. You’ll notice the island’s counter made of contrasting strips of hardwood. You can see the stove top’s highly stylized vent hood. It was important to get a beauty because it was so prominent.island counter top of different woodsHere is a shot of the island from behind. We maintained a continuous veneer for the doors and drawer fronts in a clear finished maple. All were mounted over-lay with long, thin chrome pulls.

modern kitchen islandHere you can see the left side of the kitchen and the effect of the glass shelves (which are on the right side as well).

stylish modern kitchenThe cabinets on the far right and left are open shelved from behind, though you can barely see it (opposite the fridge). The coffee maker, toaster, can opener, etc. are there for easy access. This frees up counter space and keeps the kitchen looking clean and orderly. Our client is in the background. ( I interrupted her making dinner when I stopped by to photograph)ultra modern kitchen islandThis makes a handsome master shot. The track lighting is very cool looking and if I’d had a slightly wider lens, I could have shown the glass shelves on the right and left sides. Maybe I’ll go back and photograph the kitchen again some day. Might even make a nice, short film for the video page on our site.

kitchen of the futureRussell Hudson / Hudson Cabinetmaking, Inc.

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Historic Kitchen

Here is a kitchen we built for, what was an old school house (1860).

This above photo displays the strong, simple detailing we incorporated. We  increased the width of the frames for the doors, drawer faces and side walls which leaves a slightly smaller panel in each of their centers.

There is no molding profile on the inside edges of any of the frames. The fact that every face (surface) on the cabinets are frame and panel is enough decoration by itself.

The ‘fireslate’ counter tops were left square on their outside edge. These are the counter tops we all had in our high school science labs.

The wall cabinets possess the same detail with the addition of hand-made support brackets (corbels) and the cabinet’s top edges are finished with two, staggered square trim pieces (to act as a crown).

On an opposite wall we included a small unit for cookbooks.

 

 

 

 

 

The island’s counter top we made from rock-maple planks ( looks so much better than commercial butcher block). A refuse bag sits beneath this opening cut into the surface. We used over-sized legs (6″ X 6″) to support the counter’s cantilevered (over-hung) edge which creates an area to sit along one side of the island.

The Old School House has just received Historic Landmark Status. I’m pleased we were asked to maintain it’s authentic character… and I love the way it turned out.

Russell Hudson / Hudson Cabinetmaking, Inc.

 

 

 

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Pencil Lead Carving

I found this a while ago on the net. Still blows me away.

“Dalton Ghetti is a truly incredible artist. This 49-year-old carpenter from Bridgeport, CT has been carving utterly stunning miniature sculptures, without the aid of a magnifying glass, for more than a quarter of a century. Every amazing piece is carved from the tip of a lead pencil.”

He spends as much as 2&1/2 years making one.

They look so good it’s hard to appreciate just how small these are…..

I like the hand saw best!

Russell Hudson / Hudson Cabinetmaking, Inc.

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Building a Pedestal, Dining Table in Cherry

We were to build a 42″ round, pedestal, dining table in cherry. Cost was an issue so we bought the column and legs and only had to make the table’s top, assemble the parts and finish it. No skirt. Just a single center ‘stretcher’, sitting underneath at 90 degrees to the table top’s planks.
We purchased extra thick cherry (1&1/2″) in rough form (from the mill), machined the board’s faces to make them dead straight and true (flat w/ square edges). We positioned the boards to one another to achieve a 42″ round without any sapwood before gluing together.
We used double stacked biscuits (makes the top stronger) every 10 inches or so, glued all edges completely, pipe clamped and (with a wet rag) removed all the glue that had seeped from all the seams (which could prevent stain from taking during finishing).

One of the ways to minimize any curvature to the top is to alternate the growth rings from one board to the next. In this picture of the glue-up, I used photoshop to highlight the boards rings on the end grain.

When dry, we made a ‘compass’ to delineate the circle (a stick with a nail at one end and a pencil at the other). We used a jigsaw to cut out a rough circle, 1/4″ outside the pencil line.

We then made a circle-cutting jig (much like the ‘compass’). This makes cutting a concise circle with a router fairly easy.

I cut the circle by making a number of passes, each 1/4″ deeper than the last, until the cutting bit (blade) made it all the way through. The speed at which I moved the router was important as too fast could create ‘tear out’ at the table top’s edges and too slow would leave the exposed edge with burn marks (which can be hard to remove by sanding). I cleaned the bit often and used a blade coating spray on the cutting bit to minimize burn. Here you can see the clean arc being created after the first of five passes with the router.

To attach the table top to the pedestal, we made a stretcher board which sits just beneath the top. This will help keep the table’s top flat and still allow for it’s inevitable movement through the seasons (expansion and contraction). Here you see my illustration of it and the actual piece attached to the base.

After finishing, it all came together nicely. Our client was very pleased. (Click on this last photo to see an enlarged version)

Russell Hudson / www.hudsoncabinetmaking.com

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